Nayagara

Before I start, I want to apologize for misspelling "sarees" as "saris." There are no signs here and I realized when in the big city this weekend!
Also, "tampoon" it turns out, is the vaginal packing post-delivery! That's what we figured, but it has been confirmed.

This weekend we traveled to Chennai- we had intended a weekend where we were seeing the general tourist attractions of Chennai including the movie studios and the beach, the temples. Hoping to get some shopping in. Bharvi's uncle had a friend in Chennai who become very excited about showing us around. His famous words over the phone were, "we'll have a banging time!"
with reference mostly to the "DizNee World, MGM Studio" theme park.

We stayed in a hotel named Nayagara Falls with a picture of Niagra. Pretty run down but well meaning staff near this friend's, "Mr. Robynson", work. He was a very kind person who wanted to show us all that was new and modern about Chennai- mostly, all that was Americanized. He was young and Pentacostal- Christians are very obvious in south India, with prayer cards and car decals. While only 20% of the population, they are an outspoken and active part of society.
He lives at home with his parents and brother- has just gotten a new job that requires working with customers on the weekends and owns a scooter and helmet (helmet is actually pretty awesome since they are super expensive and though there is a new law requiring them, only about 2/150 scooterists will have them). He was proud that he is saving up for a car. I am constantly amazed by families of 5 or 6 crammed onto little scooters, baby in dad's arms with two small children perched over his shoulder and a woman riding side-saddle behind. And all the money spent in the US on bicycle helmets! Granted, if they had to wear helmets, they couldn't fit 5 on a scooter!

It is important to note that Chennai has a population of over 6 million, and is a conglomeration of sprawling suburbs with street commerce as far as visible. Like a hundred small Indian towns on top of each other. No street signs. It would be too easy to get lost unless you were looking for a giant IT firm in the center IT district. Those shiny giant buildings with someone watering actual plants in the absence of overwhelming litter are a aberration.
The large street surrounding the IT section actually has lane markings! Not that they mean much. Robyn was excited to point them out, however.

The movie theaters here (we thought about a movie) are about 70% Tamil films (ie: not Bollywood! those films are in Hindi) Robyn wanted to see 300- the English movie here, but we declined. As we did to his wanting to go to "DizzNee World," a theme park on the way to Mamallapuram. It looked fun but we're here for the temples!
Plus we're tired and hot. Poor Robyn- we are just not nearly as fun as he thought.

So, Saturday we get in a small car- we asked for AC, but it was not working well- four of us in the back seat- I was sitting with my knees imbetween the driver and Robyn, hunched foward against the driver's shoulder. Its for a short ride to Chennai beach, right?
wrong!
a few hours later we arrive in Mamallapuram, granted, a better beach and important temples, but we would have liked prior warning. 8th century temples and famous for the stone carvers, using chisels both electric and manual.
This pretty much ate all the time and we liked seeing ancient temples but when we got back only had time for "hamburgers." Robyn who really wanted to show us their new one and only fast food joint "Marry Brown." Of course, we didn't break it to him that burgers in the US are made of beef, not vegetable- he didn't seem to know this. And side dishes usually are not rice and chutney. It was cute though and children ran around the plastic playground just like at home.
(the funniest thing is that there is a counter for ordering but no place to order! everything in India involves sitting with a menu. the counter was just for show- its like they copied the look of an american restaurant without researching what happens at each feature of the architecture!)

The next day we took advantage of what a large place like Chennai has to offer: shops and a mall. The mall was air conditioned with fashionable Indians- no Western clothing on people, only in windows. But we had a great time and found many items completely unavailable in Vellore like pashmina and Diet Pepsi! Ok, so I'm not promising anything, but we did get a bunch of excellent gifts.
And I got Eric a traditional Indian outfit. WIthout the fez. Men's traditional wear is primarily for weddings, so it is expensive. If I were really traditional he would get a dhoti or lunghi as most men wear here day to day, but I think he'd be self-conscious in public. Maybe just a little.
(at first I was going to buy him beautiful white embroidered tunic but then was told that this is what priests wear for weddings- oops)

After much argument with our driver on the way back, we made it to Vellore in time for our CHAD rotation.

A few notes on Southern India:
1. EtOH is available only at euphemistic "Wine Shops"- you see small crowds of men around these shops drinking beer, maybe hard liquor. It is very heavily taxed and frowned upon. I have been known to order a Kingfisher beer to our hotel room despite the "loose American" rumors it probably instigates.

2. There seems to be a silent alarm at 9:45PM to which all women, cows and goats respond by going home. I can be out walking surrounded by all manner of townfolk one minute and then the lone woman for miles the next. Goats bleet at doorsteps and cows lie on thresholds.

3. Our hotel staff know where we are and what we are doing at all times. We provide much amusement. "The Americans!" they shout when we get home so they bring us laundry. We turn in our keys at the front desk everytime we leave and hear what our comrades are doing. The man in the "tops" shop - shirts and fabrics- can tell any of us exactly when another of the other three girls walked in, what she bought, and how much she paid.
When we collect keys, we are told "the other girls are sleeping." or "they ate off the snack menu at 11 AM" (totally unfathomable to eat off the snack menu any time other than 4 pm)
a few times I have returned for my stethoscope or name tag and the man at the front has my key out and waiting. "I told you you'd forget something." sound familiar?

4. Bobbleheading is starting to catch on. Its a S. Indian movement that says "I know what you are saying. I hear you." but looks like they are communicating, "no!" I find myself doing it with rickshaws and restaurant waiters.